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Rebuilding the Manifoil Mk4 Combination Lock

Here I explain how to put the Manifoil Mk4 Combination lock back together. It is mostly just a matter of remembering the order of parts. There is nothing difficult here.


Incidentally...what a wheel looks like (a) full view, (b) locked, (c) unlocked and ready for combination changing. An S&G6730 change key has the right dimensions to unlock the wheels, but I haven't tested one to see if it will fit when the back is on the lock.

(a)      (b)      (c)







To rebuild the lock from its parts you must start with the base:





The first two parts in order they will be put down (from right to left). They are the base washer and the first wheel. The wheel goes down with the internal rim part pointing upwards





The next three parts to be put down (from right to left): copper washer, fly, copper washer, second wheel





So far (before the second wheel is put down)





The next three parts to be put down (from right to left): copper washer, fly, copper washer, third wheel





Just before the third wheel is put down.





After the third wheel is put down. If it looks like there are 4 wheels down it is because of the reflection in the base.





The next four parts to be put down (from right to left): copper washer, fly, clip, first cam. The clip/Circlip just needs a firm push with a screwdriver or similar to slide into place.





Those parts in place except for the first cam





The first cam in position









The wheel cover in place. It justs slips on if the gates are aligned and pointing away from the bar the cover fits around. Otherwise it doesn't fit on easily. When the lock is put onto the door the bolts hold the wheel cover against the base. Until then it sits loosely over the wheels.





The next four parts to be put down (from right to left): copper washer, copper washer, fly, clip. This fly sits with the protusion pointing downwards.





These parts in place.





The next parts to be put in position are the second cam (not pictured) and the two rollers. The springs on the rollers aren't too strong to be put in place with fingers (and/or a screwdriver), although they may fly off if you aren't careful. They fit as can be seen in the finished lock picture below.





This picture shows the remaining parts to complete the lock (before it is fixed to the door). Clockwise from top left there is: The lever (this one has had the fence sawn off for some reason), the lead side-shield (to prevent x-rays from the side of the wheel pack showing where the gates are), the bolt that holds the lever in the lock's bolt, and the bolt itself.





The lead side-shield just slides into position. It may have originally been held in place with double sided tape. Now the lock's cover is the only thing that will keep this from falling off. To fit the lever, slide the bolt (with the tiny hole on top) into its locked position. Fit the lever into it, with the lever end of the spring in the tiny hole.



The finished lock:





Side view:





Fitted to the door, spline key only inserted half way. Note how the wheelpack cover is now fixed in place with the same bolts that hold the lock to the door. Although the lever is sitting in the drive cam, the gates didn't have to be aligned because in this lock the fence has been sawn off.





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